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Published at Sunday, October 11th 2015, 18:29:55 PM by justin. Door Matts.

AUTOMATIC DOOR INJURIES - High and Low Energy Automatic Doors HIGH & LOW ENERGY DOOR SYSTEMS - WHAT MAKES THEM DIFFERENT? Automatic doors are generally grouped into two major categories. Low energy and high energy doors. The difference between the two types of doors pertain to the ways that the doorways operate. LOW ENERGY DOORS Low energy doors are often thought of as "handicap accessible automatic doorways". These doorways usually have signage showing the universal symbols that are understood as wheelchair accessible openings. In most installations, low energy door systems are either swinging or sliding doors. They are predominantly activated by a "knowing act" on the part of the doorway user. A button or push plate is used to activate the door operating mechanism. A person wishing to enter the doorway must push the button to start the door opening function. The low energy requirement of these doorways pertains to the forces exerted by the moving door through all aspects of the opening and closing cycle. Some of the low energy door systems are strictly power assisted door openers. In their most basic form, these doors use motor controls to push or pull open a door. After reaching the fully opened position a basic timer will keep the door open for a specific set time. This allows a person in a wheel chair access without having to push or pull open the door in front of their path of travel. When the timer has counted down, the door will close, and cannot be reactivated to reopen without another push of the button. Every low energy door system must operate slowly and with minimal force upon impact or resistance. A properly adjusted low energy doorway will stop, stall, or reverse when an obstruction is encountered during its operations. The more complex or sophisticated the low energy door control, the more potential features will be available. Some possible options include a power assisted feature that will sense the force exerted by a user and activate the door motor control to take over the opening effort. A feature called "Push and Go" is often available which performs this type of function. There are also obstruction reactive elements that will stop, reverse or recycle the opener that may be included in the motor control command options. According to specific industry wide safety standards, no optical sensor or proximity sensor of any kind is required on any low energy door system that is operated by a push of a button known as a "Knowing Act". For this reason, these types of doorways are practical for low volume traffic. They are safe when used appropriately and regularly tested for proper force and speed when moving. These doors can be problematic when installed in place of a more costly high energy, fully automated doorway. Daily inspections of all low energy door systems is an industry wide requirement. Most manufacturers provide signage and stickers that are positioned on door frames instructing the manager of any facility that the observation of these doorways is needed routinely. In an effort to improve the low energy products, retrofitted sensors and threshold protective devices used on fully automatic high energy door systems have been installed on low energy doors. This has become an industry wide practice that is acceptable. The sensors are often placed on these low energy openers to keep a "tailgating" pedestrian from being hit by a closing door that has "timed out" after the first user has passed through the doorway. When actual pedestrian traffic counts exceeds the original expectations of the architect or designer, it is a good idea to replace the low energy door system with a fully automatic high energy doorway. HIGH ENERGY DOORS High energy door systems are available in many different configurations. Swingers, sliders, revolving, bi-parting, and telescoping are the most prevalent types in usage today. Their application and installation are dictated by design choices, weather requirements and location parameters. These doorways differ from low energy door systems in the way that the door operates and the force and speed that the doors possess when moving. In general, automatic door systems have an approach sensor, a threshold protection sensor and an egress sensor. The complexity of the automated door system dictates the level of sophistication of the entire door component control and sensor package. As discussed in previous automatic door articles, specific requirements of different automatic door systems govern the types and locations of door sensors and safety devices. The one consistent requirement of every automatic door system is the need to perform daily safety inspections. Industry wide accepted standards have been adopted to help maintain the safety of all users of all pedestrian doorways. In the most general sense, no properly maintained and functioning automatic door should ever hit a user of that doorway. Industry standards stating the importance of daily safety checks and component inspections are normally positioned on warning labels provided by the product manufacture adjacent to the door control activation panels. The proper methods of determining the correct functions and operations of the doorway are listed along with test procedures and instructions to seek professional service assistance if any of the safety devices fail to work as described. There is usually a warning to discontinue the usage of the doorway until all safety features function consistently and properly. Because high energy doorways move at a much faster speed and force than low energy doorways when opening and closing, it is very important to know that all of the built in safety sensors are functioning properly at all times when the doorway is in use. HOW THE STANDARDS FOR HIGH & LOW ENERGY DOORS ARE DETERMINED Most standards are compiled from suggestions and the informed input from manufacturers, installers, architects, engineers, and door designers. The general public has the ability to suggest additions to these standards as well. When the standards are developed, written, and finally accepted, there is often a delay in instituting the new ideas until the next revision is printed and published. Products that are produced during an interim period between standard revision editions are considered compliant at the time of manufacturing. However, they may not always comply with the revised standards shortly after their production period. In most cases the previous standards are incorporated into the newer editions. The basic parameters and ideas behind the earlier version of the standards have been more refined or finely tuned, not generally changed from the original concept. With changes in technologies certain aspects of door controls, activation devices, door sensors, and safety equipment have made prior standards obsolete. An example of this is the current usage of overhead door sensing devices to control door functions. Originally, on the early automatic door systems, prior to the development of consistent and dependable sensors, floor mats with electric or hydraulic contacts were the most common form of door activation. Pressure sensitive mats are now in limited installations and considered outdated in most applications. There are generally provisions in the standards that refer to older equipment that has been in service and still functioning adequately. But, the emphasis on safety is always the primary basis for automatic door standards and the reason that improved designs and newer technology products have taken over. GENERAL OBSERVATIONS FROM A DOOR SERVICE PROVIDER & DOOR EXPERT WITNESS As the retained expert witness for both plaintiff and defense in hundreds of personal injury and wrongful death automatic door cases, there have been severe injuries and deaths occur as a result of every type and design of malfunctioning door systems. In older automatic door installations, failure of the sensor floor mats often caused injuries. These older technology mats, and, in some cases, original system components were generally installed in grocery stores. They were most frequently associated with automatic swinging doors and were considered a great convenience to shoppers that no longer had to hold open the store doorways as they pushed their shopping cart in or out of the store. Some old door standards make reference to control mat usage in sliding door installations. In actual practice, multiple scanning sensors were typically installed in place of the pressure activated floor mats in those systems. Pressure sensitive control mats would ultimately deteriorate due to heavy shopping carts constantly running over them. Weather related issues such as exposure to ultraviolet rays from the sun, or effects from freezing rain, snow, and ice, would cause the mats to become brittle, have contact problems, and fall apart. Pedestrians using these doorways would become confused as the mats failed to consistently signal the door operator. The doors would either fail to open, fail to remain open, or react erratically when stepped upon. With more modern technology and the usage of scanning sensors, the zones of coverage and potential for increased safety of the pedestrian using the automatic doorway is greatly improved. Some new automatic doorways have integrated safety features that will deactivate the door operator. This integrated safety feature can render the doorway harmless to any user when these new state of the art sensors are malfunctioning or improperly positioned. Even so, the majority of doorways that are currently in use must be inspected daily to insure that the sensors and motor controls are operating safely prior to the start of business every day. There are many published articles available about maintaining automatic door systems. Those articles refer to numerous past cases where injuries resulted from a variety of deferred conditions or a complete lack of inspection and/or maintenance. TYPICAL INCIDENTS THAT CAN HAPPEN WHEN AUTOMATIC DOORS MALFUNCTION 1. A woman entering a small convenience store was hit by an outward swinging automatic door when another patron approached the interior side of the doorway to leave the store. In some installations, two-way traffic is possible with one door opening. In other installations, a door to enter and a door to exit is provided. Due to the fact that a single doorway was in place to allow both ingress and egress, the door system had to have safety devices in place to guard against this type of circumstance. Upon inspection, it was determined that the overhead sensor on the exterior of the doorway was not sending information to the door motor controller which would have kept the door from opening outward when the patron on the interior of the opening was attempting to exit the building. For this reason, a two way door system that swings has often been replaced with a sliding or bi fold doorway to eliminate the possibility of collision or entrapment. The subject door inspected was not compliant with the industry standards for operation, and had not been tested or professionally inspected for several years prior to the incident. 2.A woman was entering a department store when an automatic swinging door struck her from behind, slicing her ankle. When struck by the jagged door edge, her Achilles tendon was cut and she immediately fell to the ground in the middle of the doorway. After viewing the store video footage that captured the incident, reviewing the service records provided, and from testing and inspecting the doorway during an on-site visit, it was apparent that the door moved far too quickly. The sensors were improperly adjusted and there had not been any in-house inspection of the doorway as required. 3.A small boy and girl were walking ahead of their father through an automatic sliding doorway at a local home center store. The children were about to cross the threshold when the door suddenly closed upon one of them. The second child saw the door move and grabbed his sister as the door slammed upon her. The boy broke his hand, and the girl sustained a broken leg. The father quickly scooped up the two children, and was also struck by the out of control sliding door injuring his shoulder. The incident was captured on a video recording that was "lost" during discovery. CASE OUTCOME In case #1 it was discovered during a deposition that the store owner had not wanted to pay for professional service repairs. He enlisted the help of his son to disable partial function of the outside door sensor. Altering the function of the outside sensor allowed the approach portion of the exterior sensor to function while stopping the sentinel portion. The sentinel protection was designed to disable the door motor control when someone is occupying the outswing path of the door. That tampering with the sensor created the possibility of hitting pedestrians in the path of the door swing. The store owner claimed that he could not afford to repair the defective sensor, so he made do with what he had. His son was going to school for electrical engineering at a local school, and he knew how to make the door work without spending any money. By altering the function of the doorway sensor system, the store owner was found responsible for the injury. He was also found negligent in his store maintenance and daily operations. In case #2 the store ownership believed that the woman using the door was responsible for her own injuries. According to the store manager, she had slowed down as she was entering the store or had actually stopped in the threshold while entering the store doorway. The store management claimed in depositions that daily inspections were made by their security guards. The security guards contradicted the managements position stating that they turned on the power to the doorway, but never really checked the function when they opened the store each morning. Observation of the store during subsequent months proved that no daily inspections were ever made by the store security or any other employees. When the doorway was inspected, it was determined that the motor controller had been damaged during a prior power surge, and the erratic operation of the door was confirmed. In case #3, the store intentionally disposed of the video taken during the event. Any good attorney will issue a notice to preserve all evidence including video recordings from the time of an incident. Upon inspection, the doors operated as described by the father. It was determined that two cross threshold sensors had been disabled. The two children were not "seen" by the upper sensors as this older automatic sliding door relied upon electric eye type of beams to guard the threshold during operation. The store was penalized by the court for tampering with evidence, and was sanctioned. The store was found responsible for negligent operations and practices. Automatic door systems are complex and can be potentially dangerous pieces of equipment. In deferred condition, automatic doors can exhibit significant forces that can lead to life threatening injuries. In the above three examples, all of the injured parties recovered fully. Many injured in automatic doorways are not so lucky. Every year there are many wrongful deaths associated with malfunctioning automatic doors. But that does not mean that a properly functioning and correctly adjusted automatic doorway is not safe. AUTOMATIC DOOR MANUFACTURERS - Are their products safe? The manufacturers of most automatic door systems provide products that are safe and time tested. Most of the products commercially available have been thoroughly inspected, lab tested, and put in to production after careful design and usage parameters have been met. In almost every case the defects found in the door systems have arisen from improper maintenance, a lack of policies, plans and procedures that the store management fails to observe, and an attempt to save the cost of hiring a professional competent service provider. PEDESTRIANS - BE AWARE As a pedestrian using these ubiquitous doorways, be aware of the doors that you are passing through. Observe the operation of any doorway prior to entering, and proceed with caution as you pass through the threshold. Diligence on the part of any automatic door user will help to assure safe passage. Be sure to report any defective operation to a store manager, and avoid distractions when entering an automatic doorway of any kind. Always pay attention as you walk through any doorway.

Why A Good Quality Garage Door in Dallas Is Vital The city of Dallas, Tx is located in North Central Texas, about 250 miles north of the Gulf of Mexico. The relatively flat elevation of the city, which reaches no more than 500-800 feet at the highest points, offers little protection from winds and temperature extremes. In general, the weather is considered to be humid subtropical with very hot summers. It is also characterized by a wide range of annual temperature extremes and weather phenomenon. According to The New York Times, April 1, 2011 Article "Where to Live to Avoid a Natural Disaster", Dallas is ranked as the city with the highest risks in the entire nation for weather hazards. Why did Dallas, TX receive this ranking? To quote the article, it is because "Dallas has lots of almost everything, but quakes, including hail, wind, drought, and floods." This article contains an analysis based on Sperlings Best Places, a publisher of city rankings, and it examines weather risks in 379 different American metro areas. The fact that Dallas, TX was evaluated as the city with the most dangerous and hazardous weather out of all 379 other cities is noteworthy. Lets describe some of these weather hazards that so characterize Dallas. Winters are moderate in most cases, but strong cold fronts do occur about 3 times each month and are often accompanied by sudden and extreme drops in temperature. Five months out of the year (January, February, March, November and December) temperatures reach below freezing (below 32 degrees) and for 7 months out of the year (April, May, June, July, August, September and October) temperatures reach above 90 degrees, according to the National Climatic Data Center. There is virtually no adjustment period between the months of winter and the months of extreme heat. Spring and Fall can be very undistinguished and virtually nonexistent, with the exception of strong winds and hailstorms during the Spring months. According to Riskmeter dot com, a website that evaluates risks, the Dallas Fort Worth metropolis is ranked as one of the Top 10 most hail prone areas in the entire country, according to the frequency of hail storms as well as the severity. In addition to the sudden and extreme shifts in temperatures and the devastating number and degree of hail storms, Dallas also is located in "Tornado Alley". Eighty tornadoes were reported in Dallas county between the years of 1950 & 2007, causing millions of dollars worth of damage to property. In fact, according to the National Climatic Data Center, Dallas, TX is listed as #3 in the Top Ten Most Tornado Prone Cities in the nation. When the wind is not powerful enough to be classified as a tornado, it still is strong. The National Climatic Data Center also ranked Dallas, Texas as one of the Top Ten Windiest Cities in the country. Weve mentioned extreme temperature changes, hail, powerful winds and tornadoes. But these are not the only reasons why Dallas was voted as the city with the most hazardous weather. We also must take note of how high the UV index rankings are for the city. UV rays are normally blocked by our Ozone. But on some days, more rays penetrate the Ozone and reach the earths surface than on other days, and in some areas, the rays are more intense. These rays cause damage to all living cells, and even to inanimate objects, such as our property. So, how does Dallas rate when it comes to the UV index? On average, every year the months of April, May, June, July, August, and September all were ranked as "Very High" on the index for Dallas. This is the highest possible ranking. The months of March and October both were ranked at "High" on average each year. Combined, that totals 8 months out of the year with above average UV intensity for the city of Dallas. It is true that there are some other cities in the United States besides Dallas that may have a noteworthy number of tornadoes, or high UV rankings, or a significant amount of hail storms, or high winds, or extreme shifts in temperatures. However, Dallas has ALL of these issues, making it the city with the highest risk factors combined, and the most weather hazardous metropolis. It is obvious how this severe weather affects the comfort and sometimes even the safety, of the residents. However, it may be somewhat less obvious to consider how these weather extremes and hazards affect the property of the residents. For the purpose of this article, we are considering an often neglected part of the home owners property- their garage door. How does the weather affect Dallas garage doors, and why is a good quality overhead door in Dallas so vital? The unique climate of the region brings stress to houses in Dallas-Fort Worth, and all of the cities around. Dallas homeowners are not strangers to fence and roof problems due to weather, as well as landscaping anxiety and lost windows due to hail. They also know that their garage doors undergo a lot of pressure. Their doors must be lasting enough to withstand possible hail damage on the surface of the garage door and the overhead door fixtures and hardware, warping due to extreme wind gusts and UV exposure, and parts malfunction from the high temperature fluctuations. If Dallas was voted as the city with the most weather hazards, then Dallas residents need the garage door with the most quality. This means that residents need to use special care when choosing which overhead door to acquire and which garage door company will be granted the installation job. If they dont order an overhead door that will endure the meteorological punishment of North Texas, they will soon regret it. Likewise, if they buy an overhead door of the highest quality, but use a new company that is unqualified and inexperienced to install the door, they may find their high quality door blown off, broken or split during the next wind storm. Improperly installed garage doors that come loose off the track during wind storms have been known to crash down on automobiles, or fly into neighbors yards and cause property damage. So, how can you pick the best garage door for your house in Dallas? After all, you are no expert on overhead doors and there are many different brands, types and materials out there to choose from. You need an expert in your corner, one that is knowledgeable on every sort of brand, to give you advice. This means that you need to choose your Dallas garage door company wisely. For one thing, look for a company with many years of experience operating in Dallas. They will be familiar with Dallas weather and will understand the special challenges that it brings. An overhead door company that is new to the area or just started doing business in Dallas would be unfamiliar with these unique obstacles. They may use parts that would be sufficient in a temperate and mild environment, but unable to hold up to high winds, tornado gusts, hail, and strong UV rays of Dallas. For example, if the door was not properly sealed with a coating that can resist the "Very High" UV index ratings of Dallas, you may notice the finish beginning to peel and fade prematurely. The door itself may begin warping. If they did not offer you steel garage door options, or at least rock hard sealants for the wood of your overhead door, you may also soon discover pot marks from one of the many Dallas hail storms. If they used inferior rollers, hardware or other parts, then they may not hold up very long to the sudden shifts in extreme heat and cold. You may discover soon that your garage door makes unusual noises and/or does not open and close properly. Dont be fooled if these inexperienced companies offer a cheap price tag. Sacrificing quality just to save a few bucks up front will land you with a job that has a plethora of problems. In the end, you will have to call an experienced company to re-do the job correctly and the job will end up costing you twice as much, along with wasted time and headaches. What you want is a professional, trustworthy and qualified Dallas overhead door company with years of experience doing garage door installation and overhead door repairs, as well as reasonable prices. A reputable company is the only option when you want a job done correctly. When it comes to choosing the best garage door company Dallas has to offer, there are a few other traits to look for in addition to their years of experience in Dallas. Since you want an overhead door company that reflects quality and gives attention to detail, one way to measure these qualities is by examining their website. A company with a poor quality website might offer something similar when it comes to overhead doors. You can tell a lot about the quality of a company and how much pride they take in their reputation and their work by looking at how they present themselves to the world. A well designed website with useful information speaks highly of a garage door company. The website should have pictures of products, and testimonials from happy customers. If the website is old, out-dated, poor quality, with perhaps misspelled words and pages that do not work, move on to the next candidate. If they pass the "website test", then the next step is to give the company a phone call. Ask them how many years they have been installing garage doors and offering repairs in Dallas. Ask them if they offer any warranties on their work, and on their products. Are they insured? Are their workers well-trained? Are they willing to provide you with some references? Make sure that they are able to offer all types and brands of overhead doors, so that they can give you unbiased advice when it comes to choosing the best door for your house and your budget. A cheap overhead door may save you money today, but will cost you tomorrow. Remember, if you get trapped inside your garage during one of the hottest days in Dallas, you might survive only by a miracle. You could literally roast yourself at temperatures of hundred and thirty degrees and above if the door faces the sun. Imagine what would happen to a child. Do you want safety sensors that prevent the door from closing if someone or something (such as your car) is in the way? Which springs are less likely to break? Garage door springs are under tremendous amounts of tension and pressure. If one breaks and flies off, it literally could kill someone. There are even safety devices that prevent this from happening. Ask your Dallas garage door company about such safety features when making your decision

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Fix Sticky Doors Everywhere we go, we find doors that dont close properly. Often, the answer is right in front of us and the repair is simple. First, look carefully at the edges of the door and the jamb (the frame all around the door, including the floor). Visual inspection will show you anywhere the door rubs (scrapes) against the jamb. If a door doesnt close flat, its probably warped. Flex it back into shape. Press the bottom of the door against your foot and press the top with your hands to make it match the jamb (remove the glass from a storm door first). Painting a wooden exterior door seals it from the weather to reduce warping. A door can rub or stick against one small spot because the edge of the jamb is not flat. When the door was installed, the carpenter used thin wooden wedges to line everything up, but they fatigue over time. All that may be needed is a large hammer to pound the frame slightly. Hold a scrap of wood over the area so the hammer head doesnt put dents in the jamb. Since you might move the wood slightly, you may need to touch up the paint where the jamb meets the wall moulding. Study the top and bottom of the door on the hinge side. Compare the gap between the door and the jamb (beneath the bottom hinge) to the gap above the top hinge. Often, the gap at the top is much larger. Since the door has four square corners and the jamb has four square corners, this means the door is "twisted" inside the jamb. If the top-left corner has a large gap, the right edge of the door will sag, drag and stick. If you can lift the door by the handle to get it to close smoothly, its sagging. Often, all thats needed is to tighten all the screws on the hinges to make the door square inside the frame. If a screw hole is stripped (screw wont grab), remove the screw, stuff a few sturdy toothpick pieces in the hole to take up the gap, and tighten the screw. If the screws threads are rusted away, replace the screw. If the door is wearing and dragging on a weatherstrip on the floor, dirt may have collected under the strip over the years, lifting it slightly. Its usually difficult to remove the strip, so try tapping it softly with a hammer to break up the dirt, then blowing it out, thus lowering the strip. Tighten any loose screws. Some weatherstrips have a matching piece on the bottom of the door; inspect with a small mirror and correct bends or damage. If you must remove the door, close it, then lift out the hinge pins with a flat screwdriver and a hammer by tapping upward on the bulb on the top. Be careful -- wooden doors can be very heavy. To return the door, set it into the frame as thought it were closed, then gradually return the pins, each one a little bit at a time. Tap down with a hammer to set them home. If the latch wont grab, or a deadbolt is sticky or cant be bolted, first see if the door is hanging square (see above). Look carefully to determine where the bolt or latch fails to fall into the plate (bottom edge, top edge, or side edge?). You may find a wear pattern on the plate that shows you where the latch moves across it. Most plates cannot be moved easily. If things are really out of whack, one easy repair is to purchase a universal, adjustable plate at a home improvement store; they are flexible enough to meet almost any need. If your door is very close to latching properly, you might try a small file, a small rotary burr on a drill motor, or even a small hammer and chisel to remove enough metal from the plate (and maybe the jamb, too) to let the bolt or latch fall into the plate. A few layers of paint may be all thats blocking it. Removing the plate may (or may not) make it easier to work on it, depending on the tools you have. If a lock is worn and your key sticks, try spraying in lock graphite. Avoid oil of any kind -- eventually it collects dust and makes the lock dirty. Try a different key and buy a copy of the better key. You can have a locksmith re-key a lock, but its far less expensive (~$20) to pull the lock out yourself and take it to his shop to be re-keyed than to have the locksmith come to your home (~$80 to $100). Some hardware stores will re-key a lock for $10. Leave someone at home since your door cannot be locked. Consider having the back door re-keyed to the same key at the same time. If its sticking just enough to be annoying, try lifting up on the key, or pressing downward on the key while its in the lock to see if it works better that way. Worn doorknobs (locksets) are easy to replace. For interior doors, you might just remove four screws and take it to any home-improvement store. Some require that you remove the knob and pop off a plate to get at any screws -- look for a tiny hole with a springy button inside near the edge of the handle, and then for a small slit or dip to pry on the edge of the plate. The manufacturers name is often above the latch if you need some instuctions. If you have trouble twisting the knob to get the door to open, youll probably eventually find a child or a guest (or you) locked in or out of a room. If you replace the lockset on your front door, consider saving money and headaches by replacing the back door at the same time with a packaged pair of locksets keyed alike. Locksets, like nearly everything else in modern homes, are only designed to last 20 years; long enough to raise your family and move out. Homes built before World War II have old "mortise" locks. The keyed part is usually held in place by a setscrew right beside it on the mortise hardware. Loosen the setscrew one turn, then use the key in the lock to unscrew the lock counter-clockwise. If you need a skeleton key to lock an interior door in an old house, you can find universal keys online or in home improvement stores. It is impractical to modify an old (mortise) door to accept a modern handset. Youll likely have to replace the door, which is also too difficult for the average homeowner. Take precautions for lead paint if you sand or file anything and your home is over 30 years old. Wear a mask, ventilate well, vacuum carefully. Lead makes you permanently stupid. Exterior storm and screen doors have their own set of rules. Inspect the latch plate on the jamb -- it may be adjustable with just a setscrew. Loosen the screws and the plate will move or modify to make the door seal tighter or looser. Test and readjust. If the button latch is sticky, take it apart and clean it. The pneumatic closer that keeps storm doors from slamming is easy to fix. A wide-open storm door should close fast, then slow, then very slow, then latch. Closing too fast could smash a childs fingers or the glass. If the closer closes too fast or too slow, look for a +/- screw or knob, or see if a part can be twisted after removing the pin on the door. Adjust as needed (cheaper models are not adjustable). The adjustment is to compensate for a heavy glass door (winter) and a lighter screen door (summer). If the door just slams shut and cannot be adjusted, the closer must be replaced. They cost around $10-$20 and are simple to install (follow the instructions). Take the old one with you to match it better. It will be easier to remove if you open the door slightly, then lock the closer with the bent metal tab to keep it slightly open. Then remove the pins from each end of the closer (theyre different sizes). If your door was caught by the wind and it tore the closer bracket out of the wall, see if you can install a new closer higher or lower on the door, since the frame is now damaged. Screw anchors let you enlarge the existing holes, insert the anchors, and return the screws. A flat plate of aluminum or steel might be used to create a new surface to mount. Obtain a protective strong chain/spring combination, sold in home improvement stores next to the door closers. Adjust so the chain prevents the closer from being over-stressed. One common problem: the storm door cannot be propped open using the small tab on the closers shaft; it just doesnt stay in place. Youll see the tab has a fold; yours is too flat, so it wont grab. Close the door and lift out the small pin on the jamb end of the closer. Remove the folded tab, hold the square portion with a pair of pliers or an adjustable (crescent) wrench and press the point against a hard (concrete) surface to put a little more bend in it, or use a small hammer and a vise if you have one. Return the small spring, then the tab, then the pin. The correct order for the spring and the tab puts the spring closest to the body of the closer. This way, when you have the door propped open, simply opening it a little further releases the tension on the tab and lets the spring push it away from the closer toward the door jamb. Folding (bi-fold) closet doors have a setscrew on a flat plate near the top hinge/post that gradually loosens itself and lets the entire post assembly slide sideways. The door sags and wont close properly. Open the door, loosen the screw, slide the plate slightly closer to the wall, tighten the screw. Test and adjust. There may be a similar adjustment on the post at the bottom, but it rarely needs adjustment. When properly set, the closet door should just miss scraping the wall on the hinge side. If the door does not snap closed securely, move both sliders slightly. If the post on the top or bottom of a folding closet door has been abused, it wont sit securely inside the door. Lift the entire door straight up to inspect the lower post. If the hole in the bottom of the door is severely damaged, consider using epoxy (two-part) glue to restore its integrity. You cant easily move to new holes because they sit into a vertical wood frame inside the door. Cupboard doors have weak hinges that are easily bent if the door is ever forced. Some hinges are adjustable, so look carefully at yours and adjust them as needed to make them operate smoothly and accurately. Inspect and consider bending or replacing simpler hinges as needed. If the door doesnt close flat, use your hands to gently flex and flatten it. China cabinet doors will stick if the cabinet is not level and square. Tape a long string and a weight (plumb bob) from the top of each corner to near the floor to see if its level. After you make sure nothing will fall inside the cabinet, carefully lift each foot slightly and put matching sheets of paper, cardboard or plastic under each foot to level the cabinet (at least one foot should be on the floor). A filled cabinet will sit differently than an empty one. Use a lever or have an assistant gently lift a corner to make lifting smoother and easier. When finished, all the strings will accurately follow the edges of all the corners. Doorwalls and screens get stuck in their tracks because theyre dirty or need adjustment. Use the brush attachment on a vacuum cleaner crevice tool, toothpicks, etc., to get up all the dirt in the tracks once each year. If your doorwall has worn or scraped areas on the lower track, the door is riding too low and dragging. Youll see a small hole, near the bottom, on both edges of the sliding door that adjusts a roller assembly. Lift the screen off its track and inspect the bottom to see an example. A screwdriver is used to turn a screw inside each hole. Lift the door slightly to take the tension off the roller assembly, place a block under it or have someone else hold it up, and turn the screw a half-turn. Try to slide the door. If its worse, repeat but turn the other way. Do the other side of the door. Check the rollers at the top -- they should leave just enough room to slide the door without being lifted. If you can lift the door too much, it could get lifted out of the lower track (usually during a party). Properly adjusted, all four rollers hold the door in place without dragging or having too much clearance on the bottom. There should be just enough clearance to move smoothly. Too much clearance will weaken the roller assembly. If you can lift and remove the sliding screen, clean the roller assemblies with Windex and Q-Tips or similar. You may have to loosen some or all of the roller adjustments to lift the door out of the frame. A spray oil like WD-40 may make heavy doorwalls slightly easier to slide if elderly people use them, but will hold dirt and require annual cleaning, and may drip on the track and get carried to carpets. Look for spots that bind and concentrate on fixing those spots.

Fix Sticky Doors Everywhere we go, we find doors that dont close properly. Often, the answer is right in front of us and the repair is simple. First, look carefully at the edges of the door and the jamb (the frame all around the door, including the floor). Visual inspection will show you anywhere the door rubs (scrapes) against the jamb. If a door doesnt close flat, its probably warped. Flex it back into shape. Press the bottom of the door against your foot and press the top with your hands to make it match the jamb (remove the glass from a storm door first). Painting a wooden exterior door seals it from the weather to reduce warping. A door can rub or stick against one small spot because the edge of the jamb is not flat. When the door was installed, the carpenter used thin wooden wedges to line everything up, but they fatigue over time. All that may be needed is a large hammer to pound the frame slightly. Hold a scrap of wood over the area so the hammer head doesnt put dents in the jamb. Since you might move the wood slightly, you may need to touch up the paint where the jamb meets the wall moulding. Study the top and bottom of the door on the hinge side. Compare the gap between the door and the jamb (beneath the bottom hinge) to the gap above the top hinge. Often, the gap at the top is much larger. Since the door has four square corners and the jamb has four square corners, this means the door is "twisted" inside the jamb. If the top-left corner has a large gap, the right edge of the door will sag, drag and stick. If you can lift the door by the handle to get it to close smoothly, its sagging. Often, all thats needed is to tighten all the screws on the hinges to make the door square inside the frame. If a screw hole is stripped (screw wont grab), remove the screw, stuff a few sturdy toothpick pieces in the hole to take up the gap, and tighten the screw. If the screws threads are rusted away, replace the screw. If the door is wearing and dragging on a weatherstrip on the floor, dirt may have collected under the strip over the years, lifting it slightly. Its usually difficult to remove the strip, so try tapping it softly with a hammer to break up the dirt, then blowing it out, thus lowering the strip. Tighten any loose screws. Some weatherstrips have a matching piece on the bottom of the door; inspect with a small mirror and correct bends or damage. If you must remove the door, close it, then lift out the hinge pins with a flat screwdriver and a hammer by tapping upward on the bulb on the top. Be careful -- wooden doors can be very heavy. To return the door, set it into the frame as thought it were closed, then gradually return the pins, each one a little bit at a time. Tap down with a hammer to set them home. If the latch wont grab, or a deadbolt is sticky or cant be bolted, first see if the door is hanging square (see above). Look carefully to determine where the bolt or latch fails to fall into the plate (bottom edge, top edge, or side edge?). You may find a wear pattern on the plate that shows you where the latch moves across it. Most plates cannot be moved easily. If things are really out of whack, one easy repair is to purchase a universal, adjustable plate at a home improvement store; they are flexible enough to meet almost any need. If your door is very close to latching properly, you might try a small file, a small rotary burr on a drill motor, or even a small hammer and chisel to remove enough metal from the plate (and maybe the jamb, too) to let the bolt or latch fall into the plate. A few layers of paint may be all thats blocking it. Removing the plate may (or may not) make it easier to work on it, depending on the tools you have. If a lock is worn and your key sticks, try spraying in lock graphite. Avoid oil of any kind -- eventually it collects dust and makes the lock dirty. Try a different key and buy a copy of the better key. You can have a locksmith re-key a lock, but its far less expensive (~$20) to pull the lock out yourself and take it to his shop to be re-keyed than to have the locksmith come to your home (~$80 to $100). Some hardware stores will re-key a lock for $10. Leave someone at home since your door cannot be locked. Consider having the back door re-keyed to the same key at the same time. If its sticking just enough to be annoying, try lifting up on the key, or pressing downward on the key while its in the lock to see if it works better that way. Worn doorknobs (locksets) are easy to replace. For interior doors, you might just remove four screws and take it to any home-improvement store. Some require that you remove the knob and pop off a plate to get at any screws -- look for a tiny hole with a springy button inside near the edge of the handle, and then for a small slit or dip to pry on the edge of the plate. The manufacturers name is often above the latch if you need some instuctions. If you have trouble twisting the knob to get the door to open, youll probably eventually find a child or a guest (or you) locked in or out of a room. If you replace the lockset on your front door, consider saving money and headaches by replacing the back door at the same time with a packaged pair of locksets keyed alike. Locksets, like nearly everything else in modern homes, are only designed to last 20 years; long enough to raise your family and move out. Homes built before World War II have old "mortise" locks. The keyed part is usually held in place by a setscrew right beside it on the mortise hardware. Loosen the setscrew one turn, then use the key in the lock to unscrew the lock counter-clockwise. If you need a skeleton key to lock an interior door in an old house, you can find universal keys online or in home improvement stores. It is impractical to modify an old (mortise) door to accept a modern handset. Youll likely have to replace the door, which is also too difficult for the average homeowner. Take precautions for lead paint if you sand or file anything and your home is over 30 years old. Wear a mask, ventilate well, vacuum carefully. Lead makes you permanently stupid. Exterior storm and screen doors have their own set of rules. Inspect the latch plate on the jamb -- it may be adjustable with just a setscrew. Loosen the screws and the plate will move or modify to make the door seal tighter or looser. Test and readjust. If the button latch is sticky, take it apart and clean it. The pneumatic closer that keeps storm doors from slamming is easy to fix. A wide-open storm door should close fast, then slow, then very slow, then latch. Closing too fast could smash a childs fingers or the glass. If the closer closes too fast or too slow, look for a +/- screw or knob, or see if a part can be twisted after removing the pin on the door. Adjust as needed (cheaper models are not adjustable). The adjustment is to compensate for a heavy glass door (winter) and a lighter screen door (summer). If the door just slams shut and cannot be adjusted, the closer must be replaced. They cost around $10-$20 and are simple to install (follow the instructions). Take the old one with you to match it better. It will be easier to remove if you open the door slightly, then lock the closer with the bent metal tab to keep it slightly open. Then remove the pins from each end of the closer (theyre different sizes). If your door was caught by the wind and it tore the closer bracket out of the wall, see if you can install a new closer higher or lower on the door, since the frame is now damaged. Screw anchors let you enlarge the existing holes, insert the anchors, and return the screws. A flat plate of aluminum or steel might be used to create a new surface to mount. Obtain a protective strong chain/spring combination, sold in home improvement stores next to the door closers. Adjust so the chain prevents the closer from being over-stressed. One common problem: the storm door cannot be propped open using the small tab on the closers shaft; it just doesnt stay in place. Youll see the tab has a fold; yours is too flat, so it wont grab. Close the door and lift out the small pin on the jamb end of the closer. Remove the folded tab, hold the square portion with a pair of pliers or an adjustable (crescent) wrench and press the point against a hard (concrete) surface to put a little more bend in it, or use a small hammer and a vise if you have one. Return the small spring, then the tab, then the pin. The correct order for the spring and the tab puts the spring closest to the body of the closer. This way, when you have the door propped open, simply opening it a little further releases the tension on the tab and lets the spring push it away from the closer toward the door jamb. Folding (bi-fold) closet doors have a setscrew on a flat plate near the top hinge/post that gradually loosens itself and lets the entire post assembly slide sideways. The door sags and wont close properly. Open the door, loosen the screw, slide the plate slightly closer to the wall, tighten the screw. Test and adjust. There may be a similar adjustment on the post at the bottom, but it rarely needs adjustment. When properly set, the closet door should just miss scraping the wall on the hinge side. If the door does not snap closed securely, move both sliders slightly. If the post on the top or bottom of a folding closet door has been abused, it wont sit securely inside the door. Lift the entire door straight up to inspect the lower post. If the hole in the bottom of the door is severely damaged, consider using epoxy (two-part) glue to restore its integrity. You cant easily move to new holes because they sit into a vertical wood frame inside the door. Cupboard doors have weak hinges that are easily bent if the door is ever forced. Some hinges are adjustable, so look carefully at yours and adjust them as needed to make them operate smoothly and accurately. Inspect and consider bending or replacing simpler hinges as needed. If the door doesnt close flat, use your hands to gently flex and flatten it. China cabinet doors will stick if the cabinet is not level and square. Tape a long string and a weight (plumb bob) from the top of each corner to near the floor to see if its level. After you make sure nothing will fall inside the cabinet, carefully lift each foot slightly and put matching sheets of paper, cardboard or plastic under each foot to level the cabinet (at least one foot should be on the floor). A filled cabinet will sit differently than an empty one. Use a lever or have an assistant gently lift a corner to make lifting smoother and easier. When finished, all the strings will accurately follow the edges of all the corners. Doorwalls and screens get stuck in their tracks because theyre dirty or need adjustment. Use the brush attachment on a vacuum cleaner crevice tool, toothpicks, etc., to get up all the dirt in the tracks once each year. If your doorwall has worn or scraped areas on the lower track, the door is riding too low and dragging. Youll see a small hole, near the bottom, on both edges of the sliding door that adjusts a roller assembly. Lift the screen off its track and inspect the bottom to see an example. A screwdriver is used to turn a screw inside each hole. Lift the door slightly to take the tension off the roller assembly, place a block under it or have someone else hold it up, and turn the screw a half-turn. Try to slide the door. If its worse, repeat but turn the other way. Do the other side of the door. Check the rollers at the top -- they should leave just enough room to slide the door without being lifted. If you can lift the door too much, it could get lifted out of the lower track (usually during a party). Properly adjusted, all four rollers hold the door in place without dragging or having too much clearance on the bottom. There should be just enough clearance to move smoothly. Too much clearance will weaken the roller assembly. If you can lift and remove the sliding screen, clean the roller assemblies with Windex and Q-Tips or similar. You may have to loosen some or all of the roller adjustments to lift the door out of the frame. A spray oil like WD-40 may make heavy doorwalls slightly easier to slide if elderly people use them, but will hold dirt and require annual cleaning, and may drip on the track and get carried to carpets. Look for spots that bind and concentrate on fixing those spots.

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