Published at Tuesday, October 13th 2015, 22:46:55 PM by Tommy. Door Matts. a Sectional Garage Door This guide gives information on how to fit a UK Specification Sectional Garage Door and give you some useful information to consider before making a purchase. Things to consider: Will the door be fitted between the opening or behind the opening? Do you want to automate the door? Do you want the door to have insulation? These are the main concerns then you have the colour of the door and frame, window options and so on, the list of options is usually quite long so its a good idea to thoroughly read the brochure before deciding. Between or Behind In the main sectional garage doors are designed to be fitted behind the opening as this allows full drive through height and width to be obtained. However it is not always possible to fit your new sectional door fully behind the opening. This could be that you do not have enough headroom or room behind the piers or in some cases you may not have piers on both sides of the opening. Headroom Do you have enough room behind the lintel and back into the garage to ensure the tracks and gearing can be fitted correctly? A rule of thumb to help you decide this would be to consider you are trying to push a box the total height and width of the garage door all the way in to the garage. If there is something in the way like lights or the ceiling slopes down then you may need to reconsider the type of door you want to fit, or make the necessary adjustments before the door is fitted such as moving lights out the way or raising / moving roof joists if possible etc. Side room Often gas and electric meters can be fitted on the wall of the garage and you may need to check they are not going to be in the way also. If they are in the way you could get your gas or electric supplier to move them. Providing they dont have to move them too far this is usually free or they may charge a fee. Call them to see what their policy is on this. Measuring Measure you opening from brick to brick at the bottom, middle and top of the opening and write these measurements down. Now measure the floor to lintel measurements at the left, middle and right of the opening and note them down. Do they match? If not put a 4 to 6 foot spirit level on the sides and lintel and floor to see where the opening is out of square. If the floor is out by more than 2cm then you may have a gap when the door is closed. Consider having the floor levelled before fitting the door. If the piers are not level you may need to order a slightly smaller door if its being fitted between the opening to ensure you can get the door fitted squarely. Then contact your Sectional Garage Door Supplier to have then order your door for you. Removing your old door BE VERY CAREFUL when removing garage door springs or cutting cables on canopy doors - if in doubt seek professional help! If you have an existing canopy garage door to remove then you either need to un-tension the over-head spring or cut the cables. If your door is in fairly good condition you may want to sell it on eBay or in the local free ads paper then you can buy new cones and cable before selling the door or carefully un-tension the spring to ensure the cables are still serviceable before selling the door. Once the spring is done you need to remove the fixings holding the old door in place then lift the door out of the way and remove the frame if it is no longer being used. Now you can install the new garage door. Fitting the new sectional door It is important to read and understand the fitting instructions before beginning to install your new door, get any questions answered before starting as this will save you time in the long run. Once you are familiar with the fitting requirements or your particular sectional garage door you can begin. 1. Assemble the frame of the door and clamp it into position ensuring it is square and level in the opening using packers as needed. 2. Using a suitable masonry drill such as an SDS drill or similar, drill the required fixing holes and insert the supplied plugs. When done you can fix with the supplied fixings / washers using a cordless drill with a socked attachment or a socket set. 3. Once the fixings of the frame are complete, recheck to ensure the frame is still level and square then move on to fitting the tracks. Follow the instructions for fitting the tracks which will involve connecting them to the tracks on the frame ensuring the joins are smooth then hanging the tracks from the ceiling joists or side walls. Ensure the tracks are square by measuring the diagonals of the tracks before securing. 4. Fit the springs, depending on the gear configuration of sectional door you have bought you may be fitting a spring on the back of the tracks, springs down the sides of the frame or overhead springs on the frame. Follow the manufacturers instructions for this and be very careful when handling garage door springs. 5. Once the springs / cables are in place then you will need to insert the rubber strip into the channel on the bottom door panel. A good tip here is to spray the channels with WD40 or similar to ensure the rubber slides in correctly. Once this is in you are ready to place the panel into position. 6. Place the panel into position and clamp it to the frame to prevent it falling whilst you attach the brackets and wheels. Once you have fitted all of the brackets and wheels you will be able to attach the spring cables if the door has this type of gear. 7. Continue to fitting the rest of the panels ensuring the BRACKETS AND WHEELS are on correctly otherwise the door will not open properly! 8. Once you have all of the panels in place you will need to tension the springs, Care should be taken and you should WEAR STRONG GLOVES in case you have a problem with the tensioning. Sectional garage door springs are extremely powerful when tensioned and they can cause some SERIOUS DAMAGE to your hands if you are not careful. 9. Oil your tracks and moving parts and fit the locking handle if the door is a manually operated door. 10. If the door is to be operated by a garage door opener then fit this as per the instructions ensuring the boom is level and centrally mounted to the door. Enjoy your new sectional garage door! If you have any problems and would like some free advice on sectional garage doors or any other types of garage doors then you are welcome to contact us.
Published at Tuesday, October 13th 2015, 21:33:55 PM by Tommy. Door Matts. Low Energy Door Systems - A Basic Primer for Your Next Door Injury Case How Low Energy Doors Work Many door injuries are created by another type of automatic door that does not fit under the same standards or classification as the most frequently encountered standard high energy door systems. These low energy doors are semi-automatic and can be potentially life threatening. They are different and distinct in the sense that they are generally operated by a "knowing act". An example of a knowing act would be pushing a wall plate or button to begin to activate this type of door system. Once this type of door has been activated, an internal timer keeps the door open for a predetermined interval. When that pre-determined time period has ended (timed out) the door begins to close. Low Energy Doors vs. High Energy Doors A very important difference between high energy and low energy door systems is the fact that low energy doors are essentially "sensory blind doors". The requirements detailed in industry wide standards of high energy door systems contain parameters that must be met through multiple sensory devices. For example, an approach sensor, a presence sensor, and an egress sensor are commonplace with most high energy door systems. These types of doors must be checked on a daily basis with a specific protocol for verifying that all of the sensors are properly integrated and functioning. Since I have previously discussed daily safety checks in a current article, "The Ins and Outs of Automatic Door Operation", this article will not describe or detail appropriate tests and obligations for high energy doors. Alternatively, low energy doors do not need to employ a variety of external sensors to be standard compliant. In fact, the general governing factor for these doors is based upon the idea that they are really designed for handicap accessibility and act as "power assist" systems as well. An ADA compliant push button, often found with the ADA symbol is used to activate the door system (knowing act). In addition, to alert the potential user that this doorway will self-open, industry wide approved round stickers are generally found on both sides of this type of door along with another sticker that attempts to make users aware that this is the type of automatic door that may activate at any time. The original idea for this type of doorway was to allow patrons in wheel chairs an easier access into a building that would otherwise only have a manual push or pull entry doorway. When these low energy door systems were in the early stages of development, my door and hardware contracting business assisted manufacturers and distributors in installing and beta testing many of these low energy doorway controls. We installed them in hundreds of office building bathrooms in Southern California to test the potential for ADA accessibility and product durability. At that time, these doors were then determined to be ADA compliant; however they lacked the sensory awareness for proximity or presence detection. The original low energy doors that were installed, when properly adjusted and set for low force movements were determined to be safe to use. During the user beta testing period, problems occurred when the force adjustments were tampered with by building maintenance staff or the electronics failed due to power surges in the building electrical systems. The maintenance staff often felt that the doors were taking too long to close. And, since most of the products we were testing were installed in public bathrooms, the building staff was not used to this type of delay when entering or leaving a restroom area. ADA compliance issues were in the early stages of development, and what is commonplace today was a new idea then. Unintended Usage Contrary to the original design intentions for these low energy door systems, many building designers, owners, and architects have chosen to use this type of low traffic intended door system as a primary automatic door entry point. These door controllers were never intended for this type of routine entry or exit. They were developed for low volume user traffic and were never intended to perform in a high traffic volume environment. Many end users wanting automatic doors for their buildings thought that they could own an automatic door system for 20% of the cost of a high energy automated door product. This thinking is incorrect, and the function of the two different types of door systems is really not interchangeable. Improper usage of these low energy door systems has contributed to many severe injuries and death. Due to misplacement, misuse, and high levels of doorway traffic, owners of these low energy door systems who are unhappy with the way they function (generally because the wrong installed automatic door product is in place) have asked some service providers to come up with a solution to their problematic door systems. In response to requests from building owners, many service providers across the country have begun to add sensors to low energy "blind doors", similar to the type that are commonly found on the high energy automatic doorways. These system upgrades have proven relatively effective, but are subject to the same potential dangerous conditions that occur when daily safety inspections are not properly or consistently performed. The owner or management of any facility has the responsibility to perform all manufacturers recommended tests and safety checks every day. With modifications to these door systems, the management of the facilities needs to exercise the same vigilance and service plans as you would require on a high energy door system. Unless there is a specialized service agreement in place that specifically has an outside service provider inspect the doors daily, the daily supervision of these automatic door products is the exclusive responsibility of the facility management and staff. Properly operating low energy doors move at a slow rate of speed and with low force (approx.10 lbf.) when activated. Another significant requirement is that the door automatically reverse itself or completely stop moving when it comes into contact with an obstruction during the closing cycle as the door returns to the threshold position. As an expert, I have consistently observed improperly adjusted doors that do not stall or reverse upon contact, and are moving with far greater speed and force then would be expected. This becomes a serious issue for users in wheel chairs as they can become trapped between the door and the door frame. One handicapped patron of a hotel actually broke his hand when an improperly adjusted low energy door slammed into his hand as he was wheeling through the opening. There are a variety of functions that can be found on different low energy door products, depending upon the manufacturer. Some feature a "Push and Go" type of mechanism that actually reacts to pressure or force from someone attempting to go through the doorway. That sort of feature can engage the motor to give the "power assisted" feature that was mentioned above. Some low energy doors only operate with a wall switch, and do not have any way to monitor the opposite side of the doorway. Others use overhead sensors or control mats to make sure that no one is on the opposite side of the doorway when a user activates the push button mechanism. Depending upon the age of the doorway, manufacturer, and the applicable standards in force at the time of installation, you can expect a "mixed bag" of potential options. It seems that the choice to install many low energy door systems has been dictated by the owners desire to cut costs and save money. As stated above, the cost of most low energy door systems is typically 20% of the cost of a high energy door system. When low energy doors are properly used in conjunction with automatic and manual doorways, they can be very effective. Many sophisticated installation configurations feature a specific entrance dedicated to ADA accessibility using a low energy door system adjacent to a high energy revolving door. Handicapped patrons in wheel chairs are generally accustomed to and informed about what to expect with low energy door systems. They understand that they have a "window of opportunity" or limited time period before the door will close when using low energy doors. They are not usually the patrons that are injured from this type of door system. It is of the utmost importance with low energy or any automatic door system, that the management of the facility where these products are installed routinely performs daily safety inspections and regularly scheduled periodic maintenance. Door systems become damaged, lose their proper adjustments, and do not function as intended by the manufacturer simply because doors are not properly maintained. It is the responsibility of every facility that has any automatic door system of any kind to provide as safe an environment for their patrons as possible. Whether it is a hotel, casino, airport, retail store, or restaurant that uses these types of doors, daily safety inspections and routine periodic service from a qualified professional service provider is essential.
Published at Tuesday, October 13th 2015, 23:50:55 PM by justin. Door Matts. Save Money When Your House Sells By Inspecting The Doors Before The Home Inspector Arrives As with windows, doors come in many different sizes and materials. Examples of materials are wood, metal, fiberglass, glass, acrylic and composite. Styles include solid core, hollow core, raised panel, flat panel, louvered, bifold, bypass, accordion, pocket, hinged, tracked, fire, pet, garage, patio, "French", "Dutch", double and so forth. Each door has specification requirements for its use. With their many components and functions, doors are a bit more complicated than windows but some of the information is similar. Dont get distracted by door descriptions. When inspecting you will be looking for the physical condition and operation of the door and also making sure that the proper door is being used. Requirements for interior doors are less restrictive than for exterior doors. Exterior doors may be used on the interior of the building but an interior door should not be used for an exterior application. In other words, a hollow core door should not be used for an exterior exit door. This is not only for security reasons but also hollow core doors do not provide adequate insulating properties and resistance to weathering. In addition, a solid core fire rated door is required between the living space and the attached garage. I will elaborate more on the fire door requirements below. Begin your inspection at the front door, which is usually the first door encountered when entering the home. Look at the front door. Is there anything that jumps out at you? Is it a solid core exterior door? How do you determine if it is a solid core door? Knock on the face of the door with your knuckles to hear if it sounds solid. If you are not sure, try comparing the sound made by knocking on an interior hollow core bypass closet door. The solid core door will create a dull noise and the hollow core door will sound like a wooden drum. As you approach the door, look at the way it hangs in the jamb (the trim material that makes up the frame surrounding the door). Check the reveal (the space between the door and the frame or jamb). Is the gap in the reveal relatively even? An eighth of an inch variance in this area is common. Any more than that could be due to loose hinges, deterioration or poor installation. Next, inspect the condition of the door face or surface. Is it deteriorated, scratched or damaged in any way? Hollow core doors and even solid core doors with a veneer skin may delaminate when subjected to severe weather conditions. Are there any cracks in the door edge around the latch? Front exterior wood doors often have panels. Check to see if any of the panels are cracked or damaged. Front exterior doors may also have glazing (glass) panels. Check to see if any of the glazing is cracked, broken or has lost its seal. Is the glass tempered? Next, open the door, straddle the front edge of the door and grab hold of the knobs. Gently lift up using your legs (NOT your back or arms) to determine if the doorknob is tight and the hinges are well secured to the jamb. If you notice a lot of play or movement at the hinge area, it may simply mean that the screws are loose. Tightening them with the proper screwdriver may resolve this symptom. Sometimes the hinge screws are fine but the hinge pin may be worn. In that case the hinge may need to be replaced. Once you have made certain the hinges are secure recheck the reveal around the door. Securing the hinges may correct some if not the entire reveal problem. If the door did not latch properly before, that problem may also be corrected by tightening the hinges. Next, check to see if the door will actually latch. You would be amazed how many times I encountered doors that did not latch. The homeowners were often surprised and commented, "We never close that door." I replied, "Well I can certainly understand that but the new owners might want it to latch for some reason. Doors that do not latch could indicate a number of issues discussed below. Make a note at this point if the door does not latch. Does the door stick in the frame at any point, drag on the floor covering or bind at the striker plate of the latch? The striker plate is the metal plate screwed into the doorjamb where the latch catches to secure the door. Does the door swing open or close on its own? Is there any unusual noise or squeaks when the door is opened, closed or latched? Do the knobs and door lock operate properly or do they need some lubrication or possible adjustments? Sometimes just tightening the screws of the hardware will eliminate problems. I often noticed that when the doorknob screws were positioned top to bottom instead of side to side, the privacy lock would not work properly. Check the orientation of the doorknob screws. They should be parallel with the floor. Check to see if the deadbolt latches are able to fully extend into the mortise hole in the jamb. If the deadbolt latch does not fully extend, the bolt can be pushed back into the unlocked position. Try this if you have access to a deadbolt lock. With the door open, engage the deadbolt part way. Stop before you hear the "click" of the lock mechanism. Push on the bolt. You will actually be able to push the bolt back into the door with your finger. Push on the bolt after you hear the "click." The bolt will not move. If you are not able to hear or feel the "click" when locking the deadbolt, the lock is not properly engaged. The mortise hole in the jamb is not deep enough to allow the bolt to travel far enough to fully engage. It is not secure. Home inspectors will report on the presence of double deadbolt locks. Some will report them as a hazard. Double deadbolts are those locks that can only be opened from the outside or the inside with a key. My reports used to say this: FYI: A locked double deadbolt lock could be a hazard in the event of an emergency if the key is not available. I recommend double deadbolt locks be replaced before the home inspector arrives. Check the striker plates in the jamb. If the striker plates are loose, damaged or missing, repair or replace them. Check the jamb itself. Is it split, damaged, deteriorated or water stained? Make a note on any of these conditions. Home inspectors and termite contractors carefully investigate water stains found around doorframes. Water intrusion is a serious issue particularly when addressing walls and exterior siding. Exterior doors will need to be weather-stripped. There should not be any light passing in around the door from the exterior. Pay particular attention to the sweep at the bottom of the door. Weather-stripping is inexpensive and easy to install. The bottom sweep can usually be adjusted downward to sweep the threshold properly. Is there a doorstopper preventing the knob from hitting the wall? As you move into other areas of the building, check the condition and operation of any bifold, bypass and accordion closet doors. Along with the considerations mentioned above, they should slide in the tracks and operate with ease without coming off the track or dragging the floor covering. Broken mirrors on bypass closet doors should be replaced. When checking any interior or exterior double doors, determine if the pins of the secondary door can be properly secured at the top and bottom. Do they operate and engage smoothly? Check patio doors and screen doors for smooth operation and proper locking. Home inspectors will report missing or damaged screen doors. Patio doors often have window coverings. Many home inspectors do not report on window coverings but you should check and note their condition to be sure they operate properly. Your Realtor will usually not recommend replacing window coverings unless the home shows badly. The buyers will probably want to select their own. On many of my inspections the buyers were present. I could hear them discussing how they would redecorate the building to reflect their own personality. New floor and window coverings were almost always on the list for replacement. Realtors often suggest cleaning or removing these items but not replacing them. The glazing in patio doors should be tempered. Check for lost dual pane seals in dual pane patio doors and the fixed glazing. Fire doors are an important consideration. Such doors are located between the living space and an attached garage. They may also be located at the stairway to the basement or any other area that may contain flammable materials, a water heater or furnace. Fire doors should have an operable automatic closer that will cause the door to self close and latch when it is released. If the fire door has an automatic closer but does not latch when it is released, the closer should be adjusted or replaced. Sometimes the floor covering can obstruct the proper operation of the closer causing the door to drag. Fire doors are installed to suppress fire from entering into a living space but only for a limited amount of time. Any modifications to these doors create a possible hazard, such as a pet door. Pet doors installed in a fire door compromises its fire suppression function. I realize we need to help our pets get in and out of our buildings for obvious reasons. I have pets too, but you need to know the home inspector will write up a fire door that has a pet door installed. Some home inspectors will write up a fire door that has a door stop installed because it overrides the purpose and proper function of the door. The swing direction of a door is also VERY IMPORTANT. The code requires a 36" landing if a door swings out over a step. HAZARD A door should not swing out over a step as a person could trip and fall. This error is common when homeowner alterations are conducted. Keep in mind that we are primarily concerned with the appearance and operation of the doors. Interior hollow core doors with holes larger than a nail or screw should probably be replaced. Exterior doorjambs that are deteriorated at the threshold may also have to be replaced. Probing with an awl or screwdriver in these areas will help you determine if deterioration is present. Check all the remaining doors in the house using the same procedures stated above. Again, do not be discouraged when you find an item. That is the reason for the work you are doing. ______________________________ DOOR FINDINGS: REMEDIES AND SOLUTIONS HARDWARE OPERATION If you notice a lot of play or movement at the door hinge area, it may mean that the screws are loose. If so, tighten them with a screwdriver. A screw that will not tighten could mean that it is stripped. A longer screw may be required to secure the hinge into the jamb. Be sure to use a screw with the proper bevel and head size or it could interfere with the hinges ability to close properly. Doors that do not latch could indicate a number of issues. A very common occurrence is a door that will latch during one part of the year or season and not during another. This is an indication of normal changes in the shape of the building during temperature or humidity variations. Plumb bob The design of the striker plate will usually account for these variations unless the plate was not installed in the proper position during construction. The door may be warped or the doorframe may be out of plumb (a plumb bob or a plummet is a weight with a pointed tip on the bottom that is suspended from a string and used as a vertical reference line. This instrument has been used since the time of the ancient Egyptians by bricklayers, masons and carpenters to ensure that their constructions are "plumb", or perfectly upright. The plumb bob is still used to this day but the builders level has replaced this ancient tool in most construction applications.) Doors that bind, stick, open or close by themselves may do so for the same reason the doors do not latch. The hinges might be loose, the striker plate may need to be adjusted or the doorjamb may need to be repositioned. A qualified handyman should be able to adjust or repair a door or jamb that is out of alignment or not plumb. You could also hire a licensed contractor to refit the door. Although a bit more complicated, secondary doors that do not secure properly are usually adjustable provided the internal hardware is operating properly. Knobs and locks that do not operate properly may require lubrication. Dry graphite is recommended rather than oil based lubricants. Oil will accelerate the problem by attracting more dirt. A locksmith can help with fussy knobs and locks. Install any missing or damaged striker plates. CONDITION Jambs and Frame Cracks in the jamb and around the hinges can be filled with putty or caulking if not too badly damaged. Repainting the trim will be optional, depending on your particular situation and realtors recommendation. Door The door surface itself is often difficult to repair if badly damaged or worn. Cracks in the door edge can be filled with putty or caulking if not too badly damaged. If the door drags the floor covering or binds in the casement frame, it may have to be shaved to allow for more clearance. This can happen when new thicker flooring materials like hardwood, tile or carpet are installed. If simple repairs can bring a door back to serviceability thats good. However, if the door is damaged so badly that repairs would cost nearly as much as a new door, replace it. This is particularly true of a front door.